Contour: Ugh, Not This Again!
Ever ask yourself “Do I really need contour in my 40’s?”
thanks a lot, kardashians!
Since the dawn of the Kardashians, women have been obsessed with mastering their contour skills. Lusting after razor-sharp cheekbones, perfecting the slimmed-down nose of their dreams, and watching their five-fingered forehead or saggy jawline magically disappear. Just for fun, I searched “how to contour” on YouTube. Whoa! I knew there would be a lot of content, but I was still blown away by the number of video tutorials that were on it. As a forty-something woman, the question you should be asking is, “Do I really need to use contour?”
one easy question
The answer is surprisingly simple. Take a good look at your face in a mirror and ask yourself this question, “In the last 20 years has my face become fuller or narrower?” If you answered “fuller” then contouring would be a good option for you. Contouring can help define your facials features so you look great in person or on the “Gram".” If you answered “narrower”, then your face has lost some of its volume over the years. Let me share my #1 pro-tip for contouring a narrow face, “Stop, Contouring!” I repeat, “Stop Contouring Your Face!” You are going to look worse, not better.
back to contour basics
Let’s breakdown the contour basics so you can finally understand it once and for all. Contouring is all about creating the effect of shadow and light. As a makeup technique, contouring creates dimension to your face. Using makeup that is slightly darker than your skin’s natural shadows deepens them, resulting in a more sculpted appearance. Adding a lighter makeup shade to the high points of your face brightens up the area, creating a highlight.
Contour vs. bronzer, what’s the difference?
A contour product, whether cream or powder is always matte. With contouring, you’re creating depth to make the angles of your face sculpted, so you need a product that can create the illusion of a shadow. Pro makeup artists, like myself, use taupe shadow or creams that closely mimic the skin’s natural shadows. Click here to read my candid thoughts on taupe eyeshadow in your forties.
The goal with bronzing is to create the illusion of a warmer complexion by applying bronzer to the areas of your face where the sun would naturally hit it: temples, nose, around the edge of your face, etc. Depending on your preference, you can choose a matte bronzer or one with a hint of shimmer for a radiant glow.
the easiest contour trick
If you are still baffled by how to contour or simply do not have the time to spend contouring like those YouTube videos that claim to be “quick and easy,” then this makeup tip is for you. Use a contour powder to sculpt and define your features. Take a medium-sized fluffy brush and apply the powder in the shape of the number “3” or a sideways letter “m.” Start at the top of the forehead, then under the cheekbones, and lastly, along the jawbone. It’s easy peasy!
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Narrow faces & Contour can’t be friends
For my narrowed-face friends, think of contour more like an acquaintance than a friend. Contour is useful if you are trying to minimize a high forehead or a saggy jawline. However, most of us think of chiseled cheekbones when we hear the term “contour.” Hollowed out cheekbones are like a bitchy friend. The kind of friend that is slightly toxic and doesn’t add any value, but you don’t kick out of the friendship circle. Adding a taupe shadow under your cheekbones accentuates the hollowness of an already thin, narrow face. It doesn’t make you look younger. It makes you look tired and withdrawn. Doubt me? Take a selfie without makeup. You will be able to see the natural contour underneath your cheekbones. The camera amps up the shadow. Now, take a picture with your makeup and contour on. The photo will show you how the contour over emphasizes the hollowness. It does the opposite of what you want it to do. No Bueno!
reverse contouring, say what??
I can already see the comments, “But you don’t understand, I really need to contour my face.” Ok, I get it. There will be some die-hard contour queens reading this post who are not ready to stop contouring. Here is the solution: Reverse Contouring. Reverse Contouring is not some kind of Harry Potter wizardry. This technique is easier than you think. Ready? Reverse contouring means highlighting. Boom, mystery solved! Use a cream or powder that is a couple of shades lighter than your skin tone underneath your cheekbones instead of a darker one. Your mind is blown, right? Reverse contouring is a great trick for women with darker complexions.
3 Ways To Reverse Contour Cheekbones
Foundation - For subtle definition, use a foundation that is one to two shades lighter than your foundation. Apply a thin layer underneath the cheekbone. I like to use the shorter, denser side of a triangle sponge or the tip of a blender sponge for a precise application.
Concealer - Choose a concealer with a creamy consistency like NARS Radiant Concealer or Laura Mercier Flawless Fusion Concealer. Again, the shade should be one to two shades lighter than your foundation. Using the applicator wand, apply the concealer underneath the cheekbones. Because of the thicker formula, concealer will give you more definition than the foundation method.
Powder - A matte powder is the only way to go! Use MAC Studio Fix Powder or Maybelline Fit Me Matte Powder for a quick and easy application. For those of you that just can’t resist and really want to go there, you can apply a translucent powder underneath your cheekbones and let the powder “bake” for a few minutes. I hate the “baking” technique. It is not suitable for everyday makeup especially if your undereyes have fine lines and wrinkles. A heavily powdered undereye area will only accentuate the things you are trying to cover up. However, I would only use the “baking” method under the cheekbones. Why? Most of us don’t have fine lines or wrinkles here, so powder can’t settle into those areas. Obviously, if you do have them, then don’t use this technique. I love the Laura Mercier Translucent Loose Setting Powder especially since they come in 3 skin color shades and you can buy them as minis.
let’s not complicate things
Feeling overwhelmed with this contouring thing? Don’t be. A video tutorial on Reverse Contouring is on its way! Makeup does not have to be complicated. There are no strict rules to follow. I have been working as a makeup artist for over 15 years and have acquired many tricks along the way. There are countless contour tutorials on the Internet. My intention with this post was to give you some understanding of why makeup artists do what we do instead of saying, “do this.” At the end of the day, makeup is about your enjoyment and how it makes you feel when you wear it.
As always, I would love to hear from you! Leave a comment and tell me which contour trick you tried or if you have one to share with the group. Share your favorite contour products and tricks on IG and tag @FacingForty, and use hashtags #reversecontour and #facingforty.
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